Whilst many Russian people lived in poverty throughout the Tsarist regimes of the 19th century, both Helsinki, Finland and Talinn, Estonia 'benefitted' from Russification programmes. So in 2007 you can visit these beautiful clean ciites and experience viewing some of the most varied architecture, where east meets west. The Russian Orthodox Churches with their bulbous domes stand out against soaring bell towers of medieval Lutheran churches. The surrounding buildings of these iconic buildings were also very stately.

Jessica Brass and I went for a day trip to Tallinn (the capital of Estonia) by a huge car ferry (think ship). We were able to appreciate an old walled town which had somehow survived Swedish rule, fire, two centuries of domination by Russia, occupation by Germany in WWII and then 50 years of Soviet occupation. This has been a remarkable achievement by the Estonians who have held on strongly to their language and religious beliefs and at the same time seem to recognise the good contributions made to their country by others. Most of this information was picked up from reading Estonian history on the web not from the churches, coffee and souvenir shops that Jess and I spent wandering in and out of most of the day.

Another place this mixed history can be seen is at Suoemalinna, the defence island in the Harbour of Helsinki. I was lucky to visit this World Heritage site by running as fast as I could, (pause for the laughter here while you all have images of me trying to sprint) to be hauled on board an almost departing ferry by a smiling sailor. This ferry is an icebreaker that plows out to the island each day. I enjoyed the history of the island which has been used for a defence station by Sweden, Russia and Finland over two and a half centuries of the different countries occupation of Finland. Finland seems to be used as a constant buffer between Sweden and Russia.

I sauntered around admiring the frozen stone defence walls, staggered across frozen, slippery ground out to the most easterly point and stared across the frozen sea to Russia (only 200 kms away). As I stood exposed to the freezing wind I tried to imagine a soldier or prisoner on this island - and this is spring. I paused a while and thought how much Steve would have loved to see the gun placements etc but then decided the mechinations of war left me as cold as the Finnish wind so I turned back to catch the ferry. Racing once more against the clock I had to run again and be hauled onto the ferry by the same, but now openly laughing sailor. Not the stately exit to the island I had planned.

Love Cathy